Thanks! That was very helpful!

Hahaha, no thanks 😁 I already have too many of those. The Maranta spreads in my house like weeds.

But yeah, you’re right! What works even better imo is to stick it into LECA instead of water, which keeps everything moist and aerated, and prevents rotting issues

The idea is following: Let’s say the fertilizer tells you to use it once a month, so you currently add a big amount (the recommendation on the label) at once, and water the rest only with plain water weekly for example.

This creates a lot of stress, and the plant has to use it up completely until you dose again in 4 weeks.

Instead, you fertilize with 1/4 every time, but water your plant 4 times a month, which spreads it out better. Continuous feeding doesn’t dehydrate the roots as much.

Also, don’t forget to discard the leftover nutrient solution every few weeks or months, since it contains lots of waste.

Fertilizer could very well be an issue, I don’t really have any idea how much fertilizer my plants need and just give them a all a bit biannually (usually in the fall and spring).

Then that’s the problem. You don’t “fertilize” with LECA, you add the nutrients to the water every time, giving you more consistent conditions.

If you only add fertilizer from time to time, you’ll get a huge amount of it instantly, too much.

Try using 1/4 strength for the darker season, and 1/2 strength in growing season to every irrigation water, and remember to flush it from time to time, around every or every second month, depending on how much it grew.

Remember to use a fertilizer that also has micronutrients, preferably one that’s made for hydro. The best option would be to use a two part fertilizer with rain water.

I see that the plants are growing in LECA. Is that new for them? Did you transition them to hydro? If so, how long ago?

For me, it looks like a problem with the roots. I’d say either root rot or too much fertilizer.

They don’t look sunburnt imo

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What’s your fertilizing and flushing routine?

It may be possible that you don’t have a “real” deficiency, but a nutrient lockout due to wrong pH or imbalance of salts.
The lower leafes are most affected, so it seems like a deficiency of mobile nutrients like nitrogen or magnesium for example. The leafes are also drooping, which might indicate an oxygen defiency (overwatering), as you already mentioned.

Did you measure the EC or pH? What did it tell?

How does you setup look like? Does the plant stand in a cache pot, or directly in the outer white one? How high is your nutrient solution level usually? Do you use a water level indicator?

And where is it located? Does it receive enough light?

Removing the rotten parts that radically was a great idea :)

https://github.com/k2-fsa/sherpa-onnx

I’m constantly switching between Gnome and KDE (Bluefin, Aurora, Bazzite, Kinoite, Silverblue, whatever) and I never had any issues.
The only thing that gets messed up a bit is theming, where I have to change the GTK theme, and sometimes the window buttons when I go from KDE to Gnome, which is also reverted in just one click in Gnome tweaks.

Thanks!

It looks quite healthy but the transition from hydro to not-hydro (geoponics, i guess?) will trigger a lot of physiological changes and internal reshuffling of nutrients. It’s inevitable.

If you click on the post I linked, you see that the plant barely had any roots left, because they were completely mush when I bought it.

The substrate you meant is called “LECA” (expanded clay balls), which wick up the hydroponic nutrient solution. It’s just another form of passive hydroponics :)

Isn’t this a sign of not enough nitrogen?

I added some additional context now :)

My problem is that the plant was pretty much dead when I got it a few months ago, and I rescued it. Still, growing completely new roots is stressful for the plant, and it redirects its resources from the leafes into the roots to get energy.

And I asked what I can do do mitigate this, so that the plant doesn’t eat itself and looses its leafes, which would suck.

Yes, the expanded clay substrate is new.

They’ve been in an organic medium (bark and coco I believe) at time of buying, but looked pretty much dead when I got them, as you can see in my previous post I linked at the beginning. Most of the roots were mush back then, but they started regrowing very healthy now.

The higher levels of fertilizer didn’t seem to be harmful as of now, since it’s still in the non-toxic zone.
My plan has been to keep it higher for now, to compensate the lack of roots, and to reduce it further more to a normal level as soon as they’ve regrown fully.

So, you would say I should reduce it now to a very low level?

Is foliar feeding better? I don’t want to loose the already yellowing leaf, that would suck.

100% AMD, for sure. AMD won’t make much problems and works ootb.

Nvidia on the other hand… if you already have a Nvidia GPU, then the proprietary drivers work pretty well, but even those won’t work flawlessly and still cause problems for many people.
And the FOSS drivers are still in the early stages and won’t cut it. So why spend lots of money for a piece of hardware that won’t give you the performance you paid for?

Also, Nvidia clearly doesn’t care about PCs or its’ users, so why support such a shitty company with your money?

TIL hoyas are non-toxic to my cats and I could have gotten one for ages. Thanks OP for reminding me

Good advice, how do I add more than one image here? Maybe I just don’t know what I’m doing.

No problem at all, Lemmy can be confusing sometimes :)

What you did is selecting the header picture or link, which is only possible for one URL.
You can click the image button on the text formatting menu and then select one or more images (I believe GIFs are also possible?) and the attach them in the text box.

Sure you can let me know what you think about it, though to be completely honest, it was her ideas that I just implemented, but I’d love to make it better.

You don’t have to alter anything to the design.

I personally would only increase the height of the saucer edge, because when you water the plants, everything will else leak on your table or whatever it’s standing on. You can achieve that by just stretching the Z axis in your slicer, and that might save you from a mess :)

Also, I guess the plastic might leak too over time because of small holes in it, and the potting soil maybe won’t hold onto enough water, so it drips.
It will also decompose and stain everything brown or black.

Maybe coat the saucer with wax or so.

You could maybe switch to something based on sphagnum moss or coco with a bit of perlite. They will be more inert and hold more water.

The plant choice you made couldn’t be better! Those succulents will be very strong and survive everything.

You should really add the picture frames into the post here, seriously. Or maybe shoot a few great ones and attach them.
On the picture here I only thought “Cute!” but not much more, but when I saw the video… Damn! Not clicking on the link would be a shame guys!

It really comes to life. The light gets shattered almost like a diamond, and you see how well it fits together.

You really did not only a great job designing it, but also printing it with that supreme quality and shiny finish!

And shame to the dumb fart breathing donkey bitch that ripped you off.
I also had to learn that lesson myself the hard way. Always offer your price first, and only then start the project. Even if it’s for a friend. Then it has the price of one bottle of cold beer.

Do you also want to hear criticism about what comes after printing? Or are you completely happy with it?

Cheers! 💚

1. Distro choice

I would recommend you either Aurora or Bluefin.
Both are pretty much the same, but differ in their desktop environment.

Traditionally, Gnome (Bluefin) always has been the champion in terms of being tablet-like, but from what I’ve heard, KDE has surpassed Gnome in terms of how well it works as a tablet UI.

You can install the one or the other, and then later “rebase” to the other variant without needing to reinstall anything if you want to try the “competitor” or if you’re unhappy.

This basically switches out the base system, but your installed apps and pictures are decoupled and kept. Like just doing a big update :D

Why do I recommend you exactly that, and not just base Fedora or Kubuntu or whatever?

Simple - you need to install the linux-surface kernel (and stuff), because without it, nothing will work, no stylus, no sleep, no battery, basically nothing.

But said modified kernel is nothing ordinary, and might shit itself randomly.

Not only would you have to install everything by hand, which was a task that not only let me return to Windows once, but twice as Linux noob! It also causes a lot of headache when you have to spend your evening fixing it via CLI or whatever.

Here uBlue comes handy: you can “fix” your system with just one click.

• Smort silica rock not thinking?
• Grub says “NØ” after system update?
• Me not care, me pressing space while booting, me selecting yesterday image, me watching YouTube when eating because me don’t care, knowing that dev daddy is already working on fix that ship tomorrow.

You don’t even have to do manual updates or whatever, everything is done in the background for you, just like on your smartphone.

You have to select the “I have a Surface device” option, and then everything comes pre-bundled and (hopefully) just werks™

2. Note taking and PDFs

I don’t know 🤷

3. SD card

🤷

4. Stylus

I believe KDE is better, because it has many wacom tablet input settings and features, but I sold that crappy Surface ages ago when Gnome was the obvious choice. The 🤷 also applies here I guess, because it was two years ago and felt like a completely different age compared to today.

Yeah, I messed them up… again. I have both a Ctenanthe amagris and Maranta leuconora. I never seem to remember which one is which 😅

Thanks for letting me know!