• 2 Posts
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Joined 3 years ago
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Cake day: June 7th, 2023

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  • The job market also dictates some of this. In my area and with my degree, one of the only industries I could find work in was in support for equipment used in oil and gas production. I had previously worked in the petrochem industry, robotics, and hvac, but when we had our first kid, I opted to take my current job beccause the extra pay allows my wife to stay home with our kids, for me to be closer to home, and to make environmental choices in my personal life.

    Ethically, I know the industry I work in is problematic but I also know of 10 other manufacturers who make the same equipment we do, so I sell myself on my contrbution by acknowledging that the operators would just get another brand’s stuff that may not be made as well and could have real repurcussions if something went wrong. It may be delusional but this equipment existed before I was here, and will continue to be made after I’m gone.



  • 100% a question to get angry answers on both sides. I use anti-sieze on lugs but I also use an adjusted torque value with that to compensate for the reduced friction, and check my lugs frequently.

    There are two possible failures here, you overstretch the stud and yield it from the reduced friction in the thread increasing the tension in the stud threads which weakens the stud and either pops it off when you tighten it or it fatigues and pops off later. The other failure is that the nut comes loose later when you are driving. I’ve never seen that actually happen.

    Reason for me using anti-sieze is, I tow a trailer in salt water and have had lugs rust to the studs then snap the hex off the lug leaving me to drill out the little nubbin that got left behind. Luckily it was in my garage that it happened and not on the road.


  • The temps in Houston are now firmly in the dangerous range during peak summer. When you reach a certain humidity and temperature, your body can’t regulate its internal temperature by sweating anymore, you essentially have to have some kind of external input to cool off, that can be cold(er) water, air conditioning, fans (where you can have lower humidity or temperature air blowing over you, or something similar.

    If you can make changes to your structure, doing a radiant barrier or some kind of false roof (even a solar shade or something that doesn’t block all the sun) over your existing roof to limit the solar heat transfer to your structure can help.

    If you can get some insulation for the windows, especially if you can get the foil lined version and direct the foil outside, that will also help.

    Local air conditioning (mini splits or single room units) are often less efficient but if you are just focused on making it tolerable, you can do a single room as a cool down room for less money (upfront and in energy cost) vs a whole house or multi room unit. There are 12v units that can be run on a decent size solar setup like used in RV’s or campers.