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Joined 9 months ago
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Cake day: April 18th, 2025

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  • You need the knob side to stick out enough for the latch to not hit the wall, but putting the jamb against the (finished) wall surface should be enough. Then use something like quarter-round as trim to hide any gap left from shimming the door.

    You might want to bring a long level and see how plumb and even that opening is. The trim work will look worse if there’s a lot of variation in that wall, or if it’s not vertical. In that case, depending on how much you care about the appearance, you could tear off the drywall and adjust or shim the studs to have a better wall to work from.

    If you end up with the trim looking uneven because of variation in the wall, you can paint the wall, trim, and jamb all the same color to make it less noticeable. It doesn’t look the best when you do that, but it might be preferable to seeing wobbly trim. And for a basement unit, it’s probably fine.


  • Might have the same issues as the barn door, but something like a pocket door might help maximize the width (assuming you don’t need access to that door under the other stairs). It would at least be a little better for noise.

    For a more “standard” door, you could basically just install the door jamb right up to the existing wall. It would be tricky to trim it nicely, but you’d only need about an inch of space on each side that way. And if you’re careful, you can make it so the door can open almost a full 180 degrees into the basement to make it easier to move furniture.

    Your other option for gaining space is removing the drywall/plaster from the wall of the stairs and replace it with paneling or something else thinner. Could get an extra half or three-quarter inch maybe?



  • Anything that custom-fits something. I do a bunch of functional prints, mostly things that are specific to something I own. I printed my wife a phone holder sized to fit her phone and case, I printed wall mounted holders for my remote and keyboard for my HTPC, and I recently upgraded to a larger printer that I used to create custom drawer organizers that fit exactly the things I need. I’ve also used it to print replacement parts for things, replacements for missing pieces, etc.






  • I’ve worked with lots of college students in my time. One thing I recommend to them is to pick classes based on the instructor, not based on the course content (something I wish someone had told me).

    A good instructor can make any topic engaging and enjoyable. And people have different preferences for how information is conveyed (for example, I gravitate toward instructors that use diagrams and other visual aids, it works best for me). So look around until you find someone that really clicks with you.

    The other thing that works for me is having some sort of end goal. I find it easier to stay engaged when I get to do something meaningful with what I’m learning.

    Out of curiosity, why do you want to learn more about these topics? Understanding your motivation might help to figure out something that works for you.


  • I’ve been daily driving CachyOS for a while now. It’s fast, and I like the rolling release model. It pretty much worked with my 4070 out of the box I believe, I don’t think I had to do anything special there. I started with Cinnamon as my DE, but eventually moved to Gnome (Cinnamon still uses X11 I believe, and there were things that just worked better with Wayland, and with a handful of extensions, I can get it to look the way I like).

    That being said, I wouldn’t recommend it to people less comfortable with Linux. CachyOS has its own repositories (which is the whole idea, the software is compiled specifically for more modern hardware), but it can sometimes be confusing when choosing packages to install. The wiki is pretty helpful though, especially with getting games up and running.









  • I’ve worked with 2D CAD programs like Autocad for years, I enjoy working with them. Once I tried 3D modeling, I found the experience frustrating–half of my time was spent typing in parameters anyways. I’m sure with enough practice I could get familiar with it, but modeling 3D shapes with a 2D tool just seems like a losing battle.

    There are times when the sculpting ability would be nice, but it doesn’t come up that often for me. When I need more complex shapes, I’ll use Inkscape to make a 2D profile and import it into OpenSCAD. So far it’s been working well for me.